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Reduce the load on the system to almost nothing but the battery. Let the system sit for approximately 44 hours. The converter voltage will drop to 13.2V DC. If the converter sees any load during this period or after it is in Float mode, it will revert back to Absorption (Normal) mode- 13.6V DC.

Deep-cycle batteries are recommended. They can be either of the Lead-Acid or AGM type. The Amp hour (Ah) rating should be shown on the battery; for example, 120Ah. There are many battery related Internet sites. Here are some examples:
http://www.batteryfaq.org
http://www.trojanbattery.com
auto.howstuffworks.com/question219.htm

To order a WFCO converter, please refer to the "Where to Buy" tab located in the navigation bar above. From the drop down, click "RV Owner", "RV Dealer", or "RV Manufacturer".

No. The battery works in conjunction with the converter to supply DC power to the RV. A battery is typically only necessary if you do a lot of dry camping or have slide-outs and/or a leveling system.

Yes, WFCO provides a manual with every converter and power/distribution center. Manuals also can be obtained by clicking here, selecting your product under the "Products" tab, and clicking on "More Info" and "Downloads". You can also call The Power PROs for general questions. For more advanced help, we recommend you have a Certified RV Technician install your converter for you.

All WFCO products carry a 2-year warranty from date of purchase.

The WF-8800, WF-9800, WF-6800, and WF-5100 Series' show the model number on the top label. The WF-8500, WF-8700, WF-8900, and WF-9900 Series' show the model number on the inside front panel next to the breakers.

For Dealers and Retail Customers. All the necessary forms are available on wfcoelectronics.com. Click on “Support” and select “Warranty Returns”. Select the appropriate form on the page that opens.
The documents can be filled in online and then printed. To receive an RGA number, email the completed documents along with the Proof of Purchase to the email address on the form. If you need an immediate replacement, complete the “Credit Card Authorization” and fax that with the rest of your forms. Authorizations received before noon EST will be sent out that day.


For Dealers and Retail Customers. During the first year, manufacturers (OEMs) typically cover the warranty. If not, please contact the WFCO Power Pros at 877-294-8997, Option 1. Troubleshoot your unit with the Power Pros before filing any warranty claim. Should you need to return a product, please follow the procedure in “How do I file a warranty claim” above.


No. If the unit is within the 2-Year Limited Warranty, you may submit it for warranty consideration by following the "How do I file a warranty claim" procedure above. If warranty is approved, a replacement unit will be issued with warranty valid for the remainder of the original 2-Year Limited Warranty term.

When a fuse blows, the red LED comes ON indicating a blown fuse. If for some reason the output circuit has no load on it (turning off the switch or turning off the appliance), the red LED will not light even if the fuse is blow or removed.

The reverse polarity fuse provides protection for the converter when a battery is used. If the battery was connected to the DC fuse board backwards, the Reverse Polarity fuse(s) would blow preventing catastrophic damage to the converter.

It is based on what type of camping you do. If you are plugged into shore power most of the time, a normal deep cycle battery will work. If you do a lot of dry camping, we recommend using a deep cycle battery rated at 100 Amp hours or more. The higher the Amp hour rating, the longer the battery will be able to deliver power.

AGM batteries are OK. We do not recommend the use of GEL batteries except when using the WF-6800 Series. See the Owner's Manual for more information.

Yes, the batteries MUST be the same brand and type (preferably the same age as well). Adding more batteries will provide longer use of DC appliances when not on shore power, but may reduce the converter's battery charging efficiency.

Wire size is based on the distance from the battery to the converter panel. The longer the distance, the heavier the gage of wire that is required. There are many charts on the internet that will give you this information.

The battery will draw amperage out of the converter. In other words, the converter provides only the amount of amperage the battery is asking for. The amount is based on the particular model of converter that you have and on the condition of the battery. Note that amperage is supplied to the RV load first, then the remainder goes to the battery. In other words, if you reduce the RV’s electrical load, then more amperage goes to the battery causing it to charge faster.

The converter is a constant current device. This design will hold current (amperage) constant while reducing voltage as loads increase. The converter may be in Bulk Charge Mode but, due to the high amperage draw, you may only see voltages in the high 12 VDC range. As amperage is reduced, the voltage will climb.

The pigtail is used to provide an additional circuit without losing that breaker space to the converter. Keep it capped off when not in use.

This is normal. There is only voltage present- no amperage. The voltage you are seeing is the voltage needed by the monitoring circuit that turns the red LED ON when a fuse is blown.

Fuses used for the DC circuits are determined by the manufacturer. Always replace with same type and size as the original. 


(Replace with an ATO or ATC fuse having same rating as the original.) 

WF-8700 Series
8712 - 15A
8725 - 30A
8735 - 40A
8740 - 30A, 30A
WF-8900 Series
8935 - 40A
8945 - 30A, 30A
8955 - 40A, 40A
8965 - 20A, 20A, 20A, 20A
8975 - 20A, 20A, 20A, 20A
WF-9800 Series
9835 - 40A
9845 - 30A, 30A
9855 - 35A. 35A
9865 - 40A, 40A
9875 - 40A, 40A
WF-8500 Series
8540 - 25A, 25A
8560 - 35A, 35A
WF-9500 Series
9540 - 25A, 25A
9560 - 35A, 35A
9580 - 30A, 30A, 30A
WF-9900 Series
9960 - 20A, 20A, 20A, 20A
9990 - 25A, 25A, 25A, 25A

Even in normal "Absorption Mode" (13.6 VDC range), your batteries are being charged, just at a slower rate. The converter will not work without AC input.

Before you call the Power Pros check the following:
1. Locate and record the WFCO converter model number.

2. Are you connected to shore power?

3. Check breakers at the pedestal and in the power center for proper voltage.

4. Are all of the fuses on the DC panel OK? Are any red LED’s on?

5. What is your battery condition? Does it have enough water? What is the age? Have you tested for shorted cells?

Voltage Check:
1. Disconnect the Positive lead at the battery terminals and set aside.

2. Turn off all DC loads in the RV.

3. Are you reading 13.6 VDC between the Positive battery lead and the Negative battery terminal? If not, the Reverse Polarity fuses may be blown at the converter or there is an OPEN fuse or battery disconnect switch in the Positive battery lead.

4. Any battery reading below 12 VDC while disconnected is a possible indication of battery trouble.


If you have no AC power, check the following:
1. Are you connected to AC power at the pedestal?

2. Is your Main Breaker tripped?

3. Check your wiring for any problems.

To determine whether or not the converter is bad, call the WFCO Power PROs at 877-294-8997 and a technician will troubleshoot the unit with you.


If you have no DC power, check the following:
1. Is AC power coming into your RV?

2. Is the converter breaker in the ON position?

3. Are the Reverse Polarity fuses in good condition?

4. Check your wiring for any problems.

To determine whether or not the converter is bad, call the WFCO Power PROs at 877-294-8997 and a technician will troubleshoot the unit with you.

If the lights in the RV are dimming, that usually means that the converter is overloaded or that your coach is running only on batteries.

1. Remove some of the load by turning off 12V lights and appliances.

2. Turn off the converter for 10 seconds to allow the unit to discharge by either turning off the breaker or unplugging the unit.

3. Turn the converter back on.

4. Check the output voltage of the converter. It should be approximately 13.6 VDC.

5. Check your battery. It might be damaged or the water level may be low.

Keep in mind that your battery can pull up to 30A or more from the converter. Low temperatures also will have major effect on your battery's performance.


If the lights in the RV are flickering, that usually means that the converter is overloaded.

1. Remove some of the load by turning off 12V lights and appliances.

2. Turn off the converter for 10 seconds to allow the unit to discharge by either turning off the breaker or unplugging the unit.

3. Turn the converter back on.

4. Check your battery. It might be damaged or the water level may be low.

5. Check the output voltage of the converter. It should be at 13.6 VDC range.

Keep in mind that your battery can pull up to 30A or more from the converter. Low temperatures also will have major effect on your battery's performance.

No, There is no means or need to do so.

Yes. If you are mounting a WF-6800, WF-8800, or WF-9800 Series converter in the vertical position, make sure the fan is on the bottom so cooler air can be drawn into the unit.

No. The fan is controlled by the load. The fan will start running at a low speed when you have approx. 3.0 to 6.0 DC Amp draw. It will increase in speed as you add more load until you have approx 14.0 to 15.0 Amps draw. At this point, the fan is at its maximum speed and will stay there even if you add more load, Should amperage drop below 3.0 to 6.0 DC amps, the fan will shut off.

Reduce loads inside the RV (e.g. turn off appliances and lights). This will provide more amps to the battery.

You can use any lead acid/AGM series battery or lithium iron phosphate. - Gel batteries are not recommended on Auto Detection models.

Yes, more batteries will increase the run time when using your RV without AC service.
- Using a bigger battery bank can cause longer charge times. Having the correct-sized model converter will help with shorter charging times.
Call our Power Pros for more information.

You can reduce the loads running to increase the current going to the battery.
-Turning off lights or other 12-volt appliances will increase the charge current to the battery.

Wire size is based on the rated output of the charger and the distance from the battery to the converter. The greater the distance between
the converter and the battery, the larger the wire size that should be connected. The longer wire distance, size, and length will determine the voltage drop. Charts are online to help with wire size, distance, and voltage drop.

Before you call the Power Pros check the following:

1. With lead acid batteries, be sure to check water levels.

2. Don’t use electrolyte (battery acid) to top off your battery levels. Use recommended distilled water after a full charge.

3. Don’t mix battery types or old batteries with new batteries. Using an old battery with a new one can damage the new battery if left in storage unattended for a period of time.

4. If your battery feels hot to the touch, have your battery connections checked or have your batteries checked by a trained technician.

5. If your battery is a lithium battery, make sure you discharge enough battery capacity to allow your WFCO converter to go into charge mode. This is part of the Auto Detection process to determine the correct battery profile for charging by the correct battery type.

6. Make sure your battery bank capacity is manageable for the converter charger. A larger converter charger is available for bigger battery banks. A smaller converter charger may take longer to charge.
- Example: 400-amp hour capacity battery bank with a WF-8725-AD unit. Suppose we were using the full 80 percent capacity of the battery
(this will be different for each battery manufacturer). In that case, it means out of a 100-amp hour battery, 80 percent is usable capacity, so charging at 25-amp hours, you will have just over three hours of charge time per battery. While the WF-8725-AD converter will charge a 400-amp hour battery bank, consider upgrading the wire size and a converter size to a bigger charge output to maintain optimum
efficiency when charging from a generator.

7. Make sure you have the proper fuse size to match the wire size gauge and insulation type of wire. Also, match wire size to the output of the converter. Wire size should handle the current rating of the converter and the distance from the converter. Various wire charts on the internet will help explain distance, insulation rating, and distance for multiple voltages and current ratings.


1. Check your AC breakers at the service box where you plug in for service for your RV.

2. Check your breaker at the Power Center or Distribution panel for tripped breakers. Turn off the main breaker and turn it back on. Check the rest of the breakers in your distribution panel or power center and do the same procedure.

3. If breakers are ok and don’t appear to be tripped, check for loose wire connections. *(Do this with AC power and batteries disconnected
from the system). *If you feel unfamiliar with the terminology or touching electrical equipment, you should schedule with your local RV technician for further assistance.

1. Check your connection to AC service.

2. Check AC breakers to make sure they did not trip.

3. Check fuses for continuity with aa continuity checker. Some volt meters will have this built in or listed in the selection range for the volt meter.

4. Check DC wiring for loose connections. The most common is a missing ground wire connection. Another is positive wire insulation being caught between the screw and the buss bar and not contacting the copper of the wire surface with the screw or buss bar.

1. If you have 13.6 V DC at the batteries, this is the absorb voltage for lead acid series batteries and the power mode voltage for lithium batteries.

2. Lead acid batteries will continue to charge at the absorb mode at 13.6 V DC and charge at a slower rate. *State of charge (SOC) will determine the number of amps going to the battery.

3. Lithium batteries at 13.6 V DC is the power mode voltage and are usually fully charged at this point.

4. Check In-line fuses. There are multiple in-line fuses. The most common are auto reset fuses. Most are thermal active types of fuses. These fuses are located within 18 inches on the battery positive side coming from the battery to the converter. A volt meter will be necessary to check if it is a bad connection.